The bright moonlight has overshadowed the stars above Wadi Rum on that awfully warm early evening in May. In all fairness, Wadi Rum is also known as Wadi Al-Qamar or Valley of the moon, thus it is quite fitting to witness a moonrise interrupting our tea by the bonfire. Amid its barren landscape Wadi Rum is enigmatic and beautiful at the same time.
I woke up to the view of an empty king Hussein street from our hotel in Aqaba. Our driver, who was pre-arranged by our tour operator to transfer us to Wadi Rum was already waiting for us. After hastily getting ready, we left Aqaba and drove to the valley. We arrived in the tourist centre, the de facto entrance of Wadi Rum where our tour guide was waiting. When we arrived, we were asked whether we needed to pay for the entrance.
Fortunately, we came prepared with our Jordan Pass before we left for Jordan. Jordan Pass is a great way to save money when touring the country. Its price varies depending on the amount of time that you are going to spend in Petra. Furthermore, it also covers the cost of entrance to most tourist sites in the country and most importantly the cost of your visa to Jordan.
After waiting for over 30 minutes in the tourist centre, we were asked to board behind a pickup truck with a foam-covered seat and a makeshift roof that’s supported by four steels welded in the open part of the vehicle. We headed to what I later figured to be called Lawrence’s Spring.
There were camels resting and a lonely tree which offers a sanctuary to both locals and thrill seeker tourists caught in the violent heat of the sun can be seen nearby. The spring is tucked in the canyon; you will have to climb up the rocks to see it. Without much time to spend, we didn’t climb and see it. Nonetheless, I’ve witnessed something I‘ve never encountered before: a Bedouin lady who was pasturing her herd of goats, walking up the boulders started whistling. As if it is a language only her and her pets understand, the goats naturally change their direction.
Our Wadi Rum adventure soon started when the people who were part of our tour arrived. One of our companions is a well-travelled river scientist from the Netherlands called Roy. After spending several days in Wadi Rum, he seemed to have become a local celebrity. He is friendly, curious and always jolly.
Al Ramal Sand Dunes & Khazali Canyon
The tour officially started in Al Ramal sand dunes. On top of the dune, a breath-taking view awaited us. Flattened ground interrupted by high barren rock mountains that are golden and red at the same time was a wonderful sight. Whilst on top, we were treated to a view of a caravan of camels carrying tourists, which added to the drama of the view that was laid before us.
We were told that anyone who goes up the dune must run down to the bottom, so we did. It was exhilarating and painful at the same time. I soon learned that it's not ideal to wear an open toes sandals when visiting a desert. The sand that was laid bare in a 40 degrees heat melted parts of my sandals and burnt my toes.
A minute drive from Al Ramal is the Khazali Canyon. At the entrance of the canyon stand two fig trees as if guarding the place. Within it are some petroglyphs and inscriptions left mostly by the Nabateans who have inhabited a large swathe of this area and most of the Arabian desert for centuries. Some petroglyphs were probably carved before the age of Nabateans. Animals and symbols show that the area might have already been teaming with life since the dawn of time.
Sadly, some inscriptions were vandalised and new inscriptions with Arabic calligraphy appeared on top of ancient inscriptions. Apart from inscriptions and natural carved stones, there is nothing but a deposit of still water that gave an impression of a natural well in the middle.
UM FRUTH BRIDGE
The sun was higher since we left Lawrence’s Spring. Our tour continued. We headed to one of the most photographed stone bridges in Wadi Rum known as Um Fruth Bridge. It wasn’t very high, but to reach the top requires a little perseverance and courage especially for someone who is afraid of heights. It requires rock climbing and yes it is steep! Yes, it is slippery!
After descending from the stone bridge, we drove to what seemed to be a camp to have lunch. On the way there, grazing wild goats covered with untamed wools as well as wild camels can be seen. In what seemed to be a less used tent near a Bedouin family home, we had bread, canned tuna, baked beans and tea prepared by our guide.
Wadi Rum tour involves a lot of rock climbing. It can be very tiring and exhausting especially at over 40 degrees heat. After lunch and climbing more rocks, our guide decided that we deserve a break. We first stopped in Lawrence’s house. There are doubts that it's actually where Lawrence stayed when he was trying to help stir the Arab revolt. To be honest, being an anti-colonialist, I didn’t pay much attention about Lawrence during this trip. There are piles of stones on its wall and nearby left by tourists who visited before us. A little makeshift teahouse was also built next to the yellow-bricked desolated building.
Whilst sitting there trying to catch our breath and our senses, I noticed a big lizard that reminded me of what we call bubuli hiding in bamboos in central Philippines where I grew up. It was minding its own business behind the rocks but curious enough to go near human beings.
After letting Roy finish his tea, we decided to follow our driver by foot who has driven ahead of us to a little sanctuary nearby, beneath one of the tall rock mountains, under its cooling shadow. Nearby, there are trees that has been naturally made bonsai and shaped by harsh desert wind.
When we get there, our guide offered us freezing water to quench our thirst. He has also laid down a mat where we can sit and nap. I did fell asleep for a short period of time, but the excitement and the thought that I’m rarely in a place like Wadi Rum kept me awake most of the time.
Gorges and canyons
After siesta we went to visit different gorges and canyons. Each has its own unique features: some have boulders taller than an average human, some has red or yellow sand that flows to the other end as if a dried up river dehydrated by desert heat. The tall rock that either makes a gorge or a canyon serves as a frontier from the heat of the burning sun.
There are also trees and wildlife within it. Like a work of art, water current like marks were visible on the rocks. With curiosity and having observed these marks I asked Roy, taking advantage of his knowledge as a river scientist, whether he thought that Wadi Rum was under water before. He explained with excitement that Wadi Rum was certainly used to be underwater. He added that the marks were made not only by wavy but also by falls like currents.
As in the start of our tour, I found it difficult to walk on fine sands with my almost torn away sandals. I was apprehensive to climb boulders or to walk barefoot on thick sand. But I did it. The struggle was worth it whenever a beautiful view surprised us on the other end of every canyon. Some of these passageways took between 15 to 30 minutes to trek.
My most favourite is the Abu Khashaba canyon. It has one of the most stunning views of Wadi Rum landscape. It felt like I have discovered an alien world, a mirage of snaking red river that flows toward a beautiful oasis. From within the shadow of this canyon, the colour of sunlight also seemed to have reddened making the view looking more like a dream.
The sun felt less intense and our day tour was almost ending. Our guide drove us to what he called a changing sand dune. Its shape is dictated and sculpted by the wind. Although the dune is small, I felt like being on the top of the world. The afternoon wind has also started to blow gently allowing us to cool down whilst sitting on top of the dunes.
There was no one else there but us, apart from at one point, a dog running appeared out of nowhere. This is what I know of desert. I felt at peace and happy being here. I always knew that my heart belongs to the desert.
After almost an hour, our guide told us that we should head to our camp and watch the sunset from a stone hill nearby. Sunsets are my weakness and I can tell you that my heart skipped with excitement knowing that a sunset is waiting for us.
Desert Camp
Our camp was tucked between hills of rock. There’s a makeshift avenue lined with desert stones. There were nine guest huts, a permanent building housing the dorm type toilet and showers where I later washed all the red sand that were deposited in my hair and my skin. There were also 2 bigger huts that serve as the camp owners accommodation, kitchen and a large guest dining room.
There is a satellite and a water pump on the top of the rocks above the camp that’s only visible from the rocky hill on the left. Outside there was a sitting area for bonfire and a tea. Our hut was small. Three single beds were clogged together and there’s one window in the middle. There’s a little space in the middle enough for us to move our suitcases one by one. There is also a residence cat that we didn’t see until breakfast.
Sunset
After dropping our bag in our little hut, Jei Em and I started our short trek to the sandstone hills nearby to wait for the sunset. We waited for almost 2 hours before the start of the golden hour. From above, we can see other sandstone mountains scattered as far as the eyes can see.
Our wait was sometimes interrupted by harsh late afternoon wind and the view of jeeps carrying tourist to their camps. Nevertheless, after patiently waiting and taking hundreds of photos, we were finally treated to a splash of wild red and yellow tinted colour sunset.
The wind carrying bits of sand sweeping along the barren landscape of Wadi Rum also made the sunset watch more dramatic and beautiful. It was definitely a great treat after a very long and tiring day of exploring the valley.
A Bedouin Father
Before the moonrise, our guide has prepared some tea, which he left near the bonfire to keep warm. Whilst sipping our tea, he prepared his prayer mat a few feet away from the fire and started praying silently. Our guide was an elderly Bedouin who has lived in Wadi Rum all his life. He is a devout Muslim and a family man. He doesn’t talk a lot, probably due to language barrier. Nonetheless, his knowledge and experience of the valley made him the best guide to have.
I would shamefully admit that I’ve forgotten his name, but I still remember some stories that he has told us whilst sitting by the fire on that early desert evening. He has 11 children and many grandchildren. He said that everyone in Wadi Rum is related by blood and that any trouble or misunderstandings are resolved within the community without the need to go to the police.
Gaudy desert evening
Our guide was snoring from the pick up truck. There was a little noise, maybe screaming from not so distant camp. Whilst our camp was peaceful and quiet, I found solace walking in a makeshift avenue leading out deep in the desert. I didn’t ventured very far out, as I must admit that I’m scared of desert snakes. It was a gaudy night. My eyes were still adjusting to the moonlight and when it fully did, I’ve tried to breath in and look for the stars, but the moon has overpowered the starlights.
There are no stars or shooting stars visible from where we were. Nevertheless, whilst I stood still looking far in the horizon, I took a few moments to appreciate and tried to remember the minute of details of the silhouetting mountain stones that surround us.
I couldn’t help but think whether the people who lives and have visited the valley have ever felt a little melancholia when night falls in the desert. Did the moonlight and the peacefulness of the Valley’s night made them contemplate how beautiful life is, for it surely did for me? I sighed several times. It was a sigh that invoked a sense of calm, contentment and peacefulness. I let the wind carry whatever burden I was feeling that night. In the noisy world we live in, to feel calm and peace are rare thus I stood there and cherished it for as long as I can. I stayed out for a while until I couldn’t bear the tiredness anymore. I smiled to the gentle nocturnal wind and walked back to our hut to sleep.
Shukran, Wadi Rum
We had a quick breakfast in the company of Roy and the resident cat. The cat name is definitely not Shakira but its something quite similar. Maybe it was Patricia. The breakfast was pleasant and tasty. Omelette, bread, hummus, honey and different kind of cheeses were served. There were no other visitors in the camp but Roy and us. Though short, it was a pleasant breakfast. Afterwards we picked our suitcases and we drove back to the tourist centre from a different way than the day before.
We shared a taxi with Roy to go to Petra, but before we left the Valley, we went to the old and unused Ottoman railway. The railway is slimmer than European rail tracks, it has been purposely built this way to avoid European colonialists to be able to use it to advance their colonial interests in the region. Though it was effective for some times, History showed us that slimming down railways did not stop colonialists adventurism in the region. The consequences of their colonial project still resonate to the lives of local people to this day.
The light was soft and the gentle breeze adds to the beautiful morning that we woke up to in the Valley of the Moon. The remnants of the heat the day before seems to lurk and at the same time felt like a thousand years ago. It’s easy to think that Wadi Rum is only a barren landscape but the Valley has a soul. Its heartbeat is every footstep, every smile and every memory of each living creature that walked here.
My burnt toes felt cooler and though I still feel sore; I still managed to enjoy the last of the Wadi Rum’s view as we ventured back to the tourist centre. It’s time for the next adventure. Yallah.
We visited Wadi Rum in 20 May 2019.
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